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Titanium, gold or steel? Choosing jewelry for a new piercing

Most piercing problems we see, from bumps and irritation to piercings that never quite heal, come down to the jewelry. A well-placed piercing in the wrong metal or the wrong length will struggle. Here’s how we choose, and how you can too.

What “implant grade” means

Implant-grade titanium meets the same standards (ASTM F136) as titanium used in surgery. It contains almost no nickel, is light, and doesn’t react with your body. It’s what we use in every fresh piercing, and it’s included in our piercing prices.

Gold: yes, but solid

Solid 14k or 18k gold that is nickel-free is safe in a healing piercing. Plated, filled or “gold tone” jewelry is not: the coating wears off and exposes the base metal underneath. If a price seems too good for gold, it isn’t gold all the way through.

Why we skip “surgical steel”

“Surgical steel” is a marketing name, not a standard, and most of it contains nickel, the most common metal allergy. It can be fine in a fully healed ear, but we never put it in a new piercing.

Styles that heal well

  • Flat-back labrets for lobes, cartilage and nostrils. Nothing to catch on your hair or pillow.
  • Threadless or internally threaded ends, so nothing rough passes through the piercing.
  • Studs first, rings later. Hoops move around too much while a piercing heals.
  • No butterfly backs. They trap bacteria and are hard to clean.

Don’t skip the downsize

We start with a longer post to leave room for swelling. After four to eight weeks, it should be swapped for a shorter one, or it will snag and move, which causes most cartilage bumps. Book a free check-up and we’ll tell you when it’s time.


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